The digital native brand, Thursday Boots, has been making a name for themselves for years now—you’ve probably been seeing their ads everywhere.
I first learned about Thursday after seeing a pair out in the wild. In the middle of a quiet Starbucks, I practically yelled, “where’d you get those.” After six months of quiet deliberation, Thursday broke me down with their Facebook ads.
As a teacher, I kept trying to buy a decent pair of boots under $100, but I couldn’t find anything that would last longer than half a year. So finally I went for Thursday’s Captain boot.
I’ve been wearing my Captains for five years now—through rain, snow, the dry heat of summer in the desert and the humidity of the US south. These pounded pavement in Tokyo, New York, and LA.
They’ve been through their paces, and I’m going to dive into why I think they’re the best boot under $200.
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Thursday Boots Captain Overview
The Thursday Boots Captain is the online brand’s most popular service boot style.
Service boots are a throwback to what was commonly worn by servicemen in WWII. They’re made with a leather upper and rubber soles, toe-cap optional.
Almost every major boot brand has a service boot and a lot of folks like them for their stylish rugged looks and long life.
If you’re new to Thursday Boots and you like the look of the Captain, you may also want to look at their President and Vanguard line.
The materials and construction are identical for the Captain and President, though the Captain features a toe-cap.
I’m a fan of the toe-cap, which is why I went with the Captain. It lends a little more structure to the tip of the shoe and can help prevent “leather-sagging” in the front. However, a toe-cap can make your feet look a little shorter than they are. If you have small feet and don’t want to accentuate them, the President might be a better style for you.
The Vanguard is similar in style to the Captain, though it’s made with Horween Chromexcel leather (exceptional quality and tanned in Chicago) and its USA assembled. It comes with a slightly heftier price tag, but for some, the USA-build is worth it.
Spoiler alert: the Thursday Captain made the top of my best boots for men list. And that’s after reviewing over 100 boots.
Things to Consider Before Buying Service Boots
Service boots add a rugged edge to a casual wardrobe. Many people get them for their style but stay loyal because of their durability.
These boots handle the fall and winter months well. While not every service boot is waterproof, most are fairly water resistant and will keep your feet dry if you’re caught in the rain during a quick commute.
There’s an enormous range of service boots to choose from, as the style is very popular. Some big names are the Wolverine 1000-mile boot, the Red Wing Iron Ranger, the Viberg Service Boot, and the Thursday Boots Captain.
The most popular service boots have a similar look, but they vary in price and materials. Thursday Boots is the least expensive of those mentioned above, and the cost savings is found in the rubber sole and the Mexico-based manufacturing.
If US based manufacturing is a necessity for you, I recommend looking at Thursday’s Vanguard.
The Thursday Captain is an excellent deal. Made with Thursday's Chrome leather from Le Farc tannery (often compared to Horween Chromexcel), these boots are still holding up well after five years of wear. When (if?) these ever wear out, I’ll be getting them again.
Thursday Boots Captain Review
I now own three pairs of Thursday Captains (can you guess how I feel about them?). Throughout this review, you’ll see what my first pair look like after five years of hard wearing.
The old beat up boots are in Thursday’s Brown leather. The newer, nicer looking Captains are in the Rugged and Resilient Arizona Adobe colorway.
And toward the bottom of the review, you can see what I think about the Storm King version of the Captain.
First Impression
I’ve had my first pair of Thursday Captain’s for five years now, so I can only say what I remember from first opening them and trying them on.
I picked up the brown colorway, and it was much more shiny than I expected. If you like the rugged leather found on the Red Wing Iron Ranger, Thursday offers a few colorways done in weather-safe suede.
Thursday Boots also just recently launched their Rugged and Resilient line, which features a more matte pull up leather.
As soon as you pick these boots up, it’s clear they’re solidly built. Many reputable boot brands start around $300 for their best sellers. I remember thinking Thursday was either going to be a fantastic deal (quality boots at a discount), or a horrible rip-off (poor quality at a high price).
The steel shank and solid sole give these boots heft, which took a little getting used to, but after five years of wearing, I’m glad they do.
What Are They Like After 5 Years?
They still look great, don’t they?
I’ve cleaned and reconditioned these boots twice since getting them. The most recent time was about two years ago. I got my car stuck in the snow while driving up my parents dirt road.
The family had to pile out, and I wore these boots in foot-deep snow and mud. Because we were out there for an hour minimum, the leather soaked through. To dry out the boots we put them next to the fireplace for two days.
If you’re not sure why I’m telling you this story, it’s because that sort of treatment is punishment of the highest order for leather. Soaking and quickly drying next to high, dry heat can be a death sentence for boots, but after a few years, I was confident these Thursday’s could handle it.
And they did.
In the image above, the Captains haven’t been conditioned in six months. You can see some scuffs around the toe, but these buff out easily with leather balm.
Leather Quality and Care
Thursday Boots keeps their costs down in several ways, but one of the most notable is with their proprietary leather.
Known as Thursday Chrome leather, Thursday’s custom leather is comparable to Horween’s Chromexcel.
Thursday Chrome leather is less expensive primarily because the Le Farc tannery where it’s made is in Mexico, whereas Horween is based in Chicago.
It’s part vegetable tanned, part chrome tanned. The vegetable tanning gives it great durability, flexibility, and the natural oils will help it develop a beautiful patina as these boots continue to age. The chrome tanning gives it structure and shine.
Thursday Chrome leather is easy to care for. Because it’s so packed with natural oils, it really doesn’t need much regular care at all. But if you’ve put your boots through something like I did, it’s easy to restore them.
First, brush off any dirt with a clean rag. I use Venetian Imperial Leather Balm but Saphir makes an excellent balm, too. Work the balm into the boot, especially focusing on creases to make sure you’re covering the entire upper. When you’ve done that, buff with a brush and you’re all set.
Thursday recommends you recondition your boots every two months, but I’ve reconditioned twice in five years and my Captains still look great.
I’m a fan of the rugged, semi-roughed up look. If you want them to keep looking as good as new, reconditioning every month or two is a good idea. I personally couldn’t wait to get some scuffs and scratches on mine.
I put together a comprehensive guide on how to care for your Thursday Captains here. It covers how to clean and care for Thursday’s Rugged & Resilient, Chrome, and WeatherSafe suede proprietary leathers.
Sole
The Captain has a variety of materials in the sole designed to reduce the amount of impact you feel when walking and make these boots truly comfortable (the same sole is on the President, and a very similar one for the Vanguard).
The Poron insoles are great for absorbing shock, and the material is antimicrobial so you won’t get as much foot-stink here. Thursday has also outfitted these boots with a cork midsole and a steel shank—these boots will eventually form to your foot as the cork compresses.
These boots have a DuraEVA Comfort strip, which is usually only found in athletic shoes. I’m a fan of the comfort strip, and I’ve found that these are much softer on the soles of my feet when compared to other boots without the comfort strip.
Last, the brand cements on a studded rubber outsole, which offers a lot of grip in the rain and snow and it holds up well without wearing down in the heel.
The upper and sole are Goodyear welted, which helps with weather-resistance, and it’s also easy to replace the sole when needed.
I’ve found the sole to be durable and comfortable. It took a week to break in (which I’ll discuss a little more below), and the weight can get tiresome if you’re walking several miles.
Also, you’ll lose any foot races you take part in. For whatever reason, I’ve challenged three of my friends to races in the past year and a half, and I was wearing these boots all three times (read: I like to wear these boots when drinking beer, which is coincidentally when I challenge friends to foot races).
I lost by significant margins.
Can you resole Thursday boots?
Yes, you can resole Thursday boots. However, the cost may not be worth it. The rubber heel cap will be the first thing to wear away, and you can get just the rubber heel replaced inexpensively. The sole and Goodyear welt usually won’t need to be replaced for over five years or more.
Just make sure the rubber heel doesn’t wear away too much and dig into the stacked leather heel. Replacing the heel costs around $50. Replacing the entire sole and welt costs more like $200. You can watch me resole my Thursday Captains here.
Fit and Sizing
Thursday doesn’t offer a huge variety of widths, but they do have standard D width and Wide EE/EEE.
D-width boots are perfect for me, and I picked them up in a 10 which fit well. I have some room to wear thicker socks if needed, but even if I’m wearing thin socks, they don’t rub or feel loose.
Over time, these have kept their shape well and the heel slip disappeared within the first month. They were stiff at first, which is to be expected with all boots, but if you go with your standard size you’ll likely get an excellent fit on the first try.
Break-in Period
These boots have a minor break in period, but definitely not the worst I’ve experienced. After two weeks, they fit like a glove and the heel slip disappeared.
The EVA comfort strip goes a long way ensuring that the first few days aren’t too rough. The leather is fairly stiff out of the box, but at 1.4mm in thickness, it wasn’t too resistant.
I recall minor rubbing the first two days, and slight soreness for the week after that. But I’m sure you’ve had some awful experiences breaking in a pair of boots or shoes (the kind that makes you want to lie in bed for a week). Breaking in the Thursday Captain was nothing like that.
Thursday Captain Storm King Outsole
I also recently picked up the Thursday Captain Storm King, which is practically the same boot, but has a hefty rubber lug sole on the bottom.
To me, the biggest difference is with the style. Yes, the Storm King outsole gives you more traction through snow and ice, but I feel like the regular studded sole already offers plenty enough traction for me.
Both the regular Captain and Storm King are built on the same last, feature the same 360-degree Goodyear welt, and there are similar leather options between the two. Besides the higher profile you get with the Storm King, it’s not necessarily more water resistant to the regular Captain.
I mean it when I say they’re pretty much the same exact boot.
So if you like the taller profile and more aggressive looking sole (with the added benefit of a little more traction), check out the Thursday Captain Storm King. If you prefer the slimmer, sleeker look, stick with the regular
The Captain Storm King is nearly identical to the classic Captain, but it has a beefy rubber lug sole for added traction. If you like the added rugged style, it's a nice addition. If you prefer the sleeker look, stick with the classic.
What do Other Reviewers Think?
It shouldn’t take long to find a ton of reviews on the Thursday Captain.
On Google Reviews, the Captain has over 11,000 submissions averaging to a 4.6-star rating.
Most guys are happy with their purchase—it’s not easy finding a rugged boot with such a slim silhouette.
As you can see, the reviews are overwhelmingly positive, but I noticed a few issues that come up repeatedly in the negative reviews.
The biggest was the tongue of the boot sliding to either side. Because of this, for some folks, the leather rubs against their shin uncomfortably.
I haven’t had this issue with my pair, so it might be a minor inconsistency problem. But again, most reviewers didn’t have this experience.
Thursday Boots Captain Alternatives
Velasca Fruttiroeu
Velasca makes Italian boots and shoes, and their Fruttiroeu offers an interesting alternative to the Thursday Captain.
The Fruttiroeu is made with Blake stitched construction and features a full grain calfskin upper.
It has a beefier look to it than the Captain, so it may be your choice if you don’t like how slim the Captain looks in the photos I took. But The Velasca Fruttiroeu is still classy and more dressy that the rugged boots below like the Red Wing Iron Ranger.
Between the two, I still think the Thursday Captain is the way to go, but the Fruttiroeu may be worth looking at for a more “classically” styled boot.
The Velasca Fruttiroeu is a nice balance between rugged and dressy, with full grain, vegetable tanned calf-skin leather and a Vibram rubber sole.
Red Wing Iron Ranger
The Red Wing Iron Ranger has a little more of that rugged, combat-boot style than the Thursday Captain.
Outfitted with nickel-plated eyelets and speed hooks, the Iron Ranger isn’t as versatile as the Captain. Iron Rangers also have a more bulbous toe-cap, which some people claim make them look like clown shoes. I disagree, but the Thursday Captain is more sleek through the toe.
For a detailed comparison of the Thursday Captain vs the Red Wing Iron Ranger, check out our YouTube video below.
If you survive the break-in period, the Iron Ranger will reward you with a rugged, manly boot that can last for decades with minimal care.
Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot
Like the Iron Ranger, Wolverine’s classic service boot is more on the bulky side. It’s sturdy and you can expect a pair of these to last for several years, if not decades.
Like the Thursday Captain, these are Goodyear welted and made with excellent leather. The detailing is more precise and the materials are just a notch above what Thursday uses. That said, the price is nearly double.
If you’re looking for a super-rugged service boot to wear, the 1000 Mile boot may be your best shot.
The Wolverine 1000 Mile Boot is like an all-star team of America’s best boot-making materials. The Horween Chromexcel leather and Vibram heel cap offer rugged durability that can easily go for 1000 miles---or a decade, whichever comes first.
For my money though, I prefer the Thursday Captain. It’s a high quality boot but leaves room in the budget for a second pair (like a nice Chelsea boot).
My Thoughts Overall On Thursday Boots Captain
What I Like
Thursday Chrome leather is an excellent alternative to Horween Chromexcel. It’s durable, looks great, but it’s much less expensive due to production abroad.
The Captain is a slimmed-down service boot that fits more squarely into the modern man’s casual wardrobe than alternatives.
Durability of the leather and sole has been wonderful. I’ve put these boots through some rough conditions with minimal care and they’ve held up.
Thursday is easy to online shop with. They have free shipping and free returns in the US.
What I Don’t Like
These boots are built with premium materials which is great, but can get heavy if you’re walking more than a few miles.
Thursday Chrome leather is a pull up leather, which means these are prone to scratches and scuffs. Some like the look, but if you don’t, you’ll need to recondition your boots every three months or so.
Who is the Captain for?
The Thursday Captain is a fantastic boot for anyone who wants to add a little rugged flair to their casual wardrobe. They have the raw masculinity of a service boot, but have a more refined silhouette.
The Verdict
The Thursday Captain is my favorite boot. It has a comparable build quality to boots nearly twice their price.
Thursday Chrome leather is durable and requires very little maintenance. But if you don’t like the slightly roughed up look that’s common with pull up leather, reconditioning every two months is recommended.
As for me, I’ve been wearing these boots several times a week for over five years. Even when they were soaked through in a snowstorm and had to be dried next to the fireplace (really tough on leather) these held up. The sole is still going strong, and when the heel finally wears down, the Goodyear welt makes for an easy swap at the cobbler.
Since buying my first pair five years ago, I’ve picked up two more: one in Arizona Adobe, and another in Tobacco Storm King.
Heavier boots like the Captain can get burdensome if you’re going on a several-mile jaunt, but they’re otherwise very comfortable.
For an affordable, rugged boot that looks masculine but still has a sleek silhouette, you’ll be hard-pressed to find a better value than the Thursday Boots Captain.
The Thursday Captain is an excellent deal. Made with Thursday's Chrome leather from Le Farc tannery (often compared to Horween Chromexcel), these boots are still holding up well after five years of wear. When (if?) these ever wear out, I’ll be getting them again.
FAQs
Are Thursday boots good quality?
Yes, Thursday Boots are excellent quality. Their proprietary leather from Le Farc tannery is comparable to Horween Chromexcel leather, and the EVA comfort strip and steel shank make these comfortable too.
Are Thursday boots durable?
For everyday walking, yes, Thursday Boots are durable. The leather is saturated with oils and waxes, so it doesn’t need much regular conditioning. The soles hold up well after one and a half years of use on city streets and traveling.
Are Thursday Boots good work boots?
Thursday Boots can be used for work, but they’re better as a rugged addition to your casual style. Yes, they have a steel shank, but many work boots are rated to protect against nails and electric charges, which Thursday Boots aren’t.
Are Thursday Captain boots waterproof?
No, the Captain boots aren’t waterproof, but they’re ok to wear in the rain and snow. If they’re in inclement weather for an extended period of time, they may become saturated, but they’ll keep your feet dry in most situations.
Can Thursday Boots keep you warm?
Yes, Thursday Boots do an excellent job keeping your feet dry and warm. And if you want extra protection from the elements, throw on a thick pair of socks and you’ll have toasty toes all day.