In the Spring of 2023, Andrew Svisco had a big idea.
Svisco, the founder of the Goodyear welted boot brand Parkhurst, wanted to outfit his most popular boots with premium Horsebutt leather from the famed Italian tannery Maryam.
This would be the most expensive leather the brand has ever used.
Nearly a year later, Parkhurst dropped their new line in February, showcasing the brand’s designs wrapped in four stunning colors: Natural, Oliva, Dark Brown, and Asfalto.
Parkhurst used the beautiful leather as the upper in their derby shoe called the Bidwell 2.0, as well as their mainstay boots, The Delaware, The Richmond, and The Allen.
Svisco said this Horsebutt leather is special for many reasons.
“I think the feel and texture of it. It’s a strong leather, sure, but the honeycomb effect and natural texture variation to me is the coolest. I get customers requesting pairs to be the most ‘honeycomb’ed’ or pairs with the most texture,” Svisco told me in an email. “The feel of it though, is just unlike most leathers you find on boots”
One of Parkhurst's limited edition horse-hide leathers. Available on the Delaware (as shown here) The Richmond, and The Allen.
How Horsehide is Different
Horsehide is much different than the traditional cow leather. Its unmistakable surface texture and the natural stiffness in its fibers make it a tough material to use in bootmaking.
“The fiber structure being so tight and the leather not being flexible, both of these characteristics make it incredibly difficult to work with. On top of that you have to sort for coloration, texture, scars, etc… [There’s also] extended time involved trying to last the uppers which mostly have to be done by hand, but with the use of the toebox lasting machine,” wrote Svisco.
The process for Parkhurst to bring this premium leather drop to fruition was at times grueling, but Svisco said the learning experience is only making his company stronger. Parkhurst and the factory they use are now better aligned to continue to take on challenges and bring new creative offerings to the boot world.
“Overall I feel like a lot was accomplished from this and there definitely was a learning process behind the scenes. By this I mean it was the first time working with large quantities of horsehides/butts, so I got to see what a production run horse looks like for the first time,” wrote Svisco. “It was all hands on deck for this.”
It was a big idea and a big risk for Parkhurst, but one that is being embraced by the boot world. As of this writing, many of this boot run’s sizes are running low or have sold out.
Svisco said the positive reception has left him feeling both relieved and grateful.
“Relieved that this huge risk actually panned out pretty decently, and I am beyond grateful for the support not only from the factory, but also my customers who have taken an interest in this,” wrote Svisco.
Svisco decided to take on a particularly long and arduous challenge, and the final result is beautiful.
I, for one, am happy Parkhurst did it.
Check out Parkhurst’s full line of Horsehide leathers below.
One of Parkhurst's limited edition horse-hide leathers. Available on the Delaware (as shown here) The Richmond, and The Allen.