New boots, new leathers, new denim: what a week! Buckle up: I’ve got big releases to share with you from some of the top brands in the industry.
Oak Street Bootmakers
Oak Street Bootmakers just seem to be getting better and better. Last week I showed you the release of three quick-patina boots sporting unique construction detail. This week they’ve done it again with the release of their new Cap Toe Trench Boot.
The brand has been producing interesting variations of both their Field Boot and Trench Boot. Most obviously, you’ll notice this model features a cap toe, with 5 eyelets and 3 speed hooks in antique brass. They both have a Vibram V-bar style outsole with a solid heel block, a leather midsole, and a 270 degree split welt.
You’ll notice the split reverse welt traveling the entire 360 degrees around the perimeter of the boot, even though it’s 270 welted. This is not common. Typically the split welt will end with its rapid stitch.
Not only is the design eye-catching, but its leather selection, Seidel’s “Tan Domane”, is a thing of beauty. This is a durable oil-tanned leather that displays a strong pull-up effect, providing dramatic highs and lows immediately upon use. The leather is so deeply packed with oils that it’s been described as having a hand similar to a baseball glove, while also keeping a soft, elegant shimmer to it.
No. 8 Shell Cordovan
It’s not every boot drop you see one of the most iconic boot lasts, paired with one of the world’s most coveted leathers, produced by one of the greatest boot brands.
Priced at a $1,740 USD, this boot is sure to be among the crown jewels in a wardrobe. Built on the beloved 2030 Last, the No. 8 Shell Cordovan features rolled edges, nine blind eyelets, a brogue cap toe, and flat waxed cotton laces. You can expect them to be constructed to Viberg’s usual high construction standards, built with a 270 degree stitchdown, stacked leather heel, midsole, insole, heel stack, counter, and toe puff. The 2030 is also built using a cedar shank, cork filling, and a full kip leather lining.
Now to the boots upper: this cordovan leather is a horse’s hide cut from its hind quarters. Horween takes great pride in this unique, dense membrane leather. Despite having a luxurious, mirror-like finish, Horween’s Shell Cordovan is extremely tough and naturally water resistant.
After wearing in this boot, you can expect to see clean rolls at all the points where the upper creases and breaks, as opposed to the coarse, pipey breaks typically to most cowhides. The 2030 in No. 8 Shell Cordovan may appear too dressy for casual use, but after some wear will look proper with a pair of indigo selvedge. This model is on the higher end of smart or business casual, and is likely one of the best choices available if you’re looking for a boot that could be worn with a suit.
Freenote Cloth and Whites Boots have collaborated to bring us this limited edition Lineman Boot. I think it’s awesome when you see two American brands come together to make something special like this.
The Lineman LTT is built on the 55 Last with an unstructured toebox. It features brass hardware with five eyelets, three speed hooks, and a top eyelet, along with a contrasting gusseted tongue. The boot’s built using a 270 degree stitchdown construction on a Vibram half sole, with a leather insole, midsole, stacked heel and counter.
The Lineman LTT is built using a beautiful natural Horsebutt from the Italian tannery Maryam. One thing that’s special about this model is its contrasty Lineman Patch in “Brown Voyager” from Seidel Tannery. The boot also comes with matching Maryam Horsebutt kilties and extra work boot laces to top it off.
This boot is without a doubt a future collectible, and something I’m sure many Pacific Northwest boot lovers will desire. Like most rugged, American made boots, the Lineman LTT would pair well with straight leg selvedge jeans and other workwear inspired apparel.
The Mariner Jacket
The Mariner Jacket is back in 2024 and is warmer and better than before. They’ve made subtle updates, refinements, and a new lining for the entire interior.
The jacket’s outer shell is made from 13 ounce, 100% cotton, Beford Cord from Japan. My favorite part is its 50% alpaca / 50% wool lining throughout the body, sleeves, and collar – making this one of their warmest offerings to date.
The Mariner is in both Olive and Black, and comes equipped with a universal zipper from Japan, throat latch collar and knit cuff detail, as well as custom horn buttons from Italy and special metal snaps from YKK.
This jacket strikes the perfect balance of being fashionable and warm. It’s something that can be worn fairly easily over nearly anything, except a suit. I imagine people will have a tough time choosing between this jacket and others like Iron Heart’s Deck Jacket.
Horween’s Cypress Collection
The beloved Canadian brand, Viberg, has been very busy recently not only with their own releases, but with producing this three boot Horween collection for their stockist, Division Road.
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The leather is Horween’s new “Cypress” leather, a vegetable-tanned cowhide treated with the very same oils and waxes used to make their famous Shell Cordovan. The result is a durable pull-up leather with remarkable grain character and stunning highs and lows that produce a wonderful contrast.
The two colorways being offered by Viberg are a “Brown Nut” and “English Tan”, two of which will be built upon their versatile 2030 Last, and the other upon their slightly slimmer and more elegant 2020 Last. All three models are built to Vibergs usual standard, with all natural materials like all leather components, cork filling, a cedar shank, and a 270 degree stitchdown construction.
These three models are without a doubt an excellent addition to your wardrobe, and Viberg makes it easy to find what suits you best by providing some subtle variations between them. You’ll be able to choose between three different Dainite soles, like a full studded sole, a half studded sole, or the full Ridgeway sole. The 2030 in English Tan Cypress is the only one of the group that receives a two piece backstay with a looped pull-tab.
While the 2020 model may be the dressiest of the bunch with its half sole and cap toe with pinking detail, all three are still casual. These shades of leather would pair beautifully with earth tones. Tan or olive chinos would work well. They can also work in a smart-casual setting, although this is solely up to the wearer.
Currently part of Division Road’s new Archive Sale is the Standard Fit Jeans in Kojima Denim from the brand Shockoe Atelier. This is widely known by true denim enthusiasts to be one of the best when it comes to mid-weight selvedge jeans.
The Shockoe Standard is made in the USA using a 14.5 ounce selvedge denim, sourced from Japan’s Collect Mills. The Standard is mid-rise with a moderate seat, broad thighs, a slight taper, and a moderate hem opening. The Standard is known to be a fit that works for many different body types.
The denim is raw, made from 100% cotton, with an indigo dyed warp and natural weft yarns. They feature a peach colored selvedge ID with a button-fly, leather-backed rivets, and a vegetable tanned patch on the waistband imprinted with the brand’s tobacco leaf stamp.
To top it off, each pair is hand numbered and signed, giving it that final handmade touch that many of us love so dearly. These are a true pair of selvedge jeans for the true denim enthusiast. They are something that can be worn easily and would work with many outfits.
If you’re looking to stray from the look of skinny or slim jeans – this is an excellent place to start. Made to provide the comfort and mobility of straight leg jeans, but without being too roomy and over the top.
Truman Boot Co.
Black Shrunken Bison
It seems like nearly every week Truman Boot Company has something new to offer us, and this week is no different with a new release and a re-stock. Let’s start with the Black Shrunken Bison.
The boot is built on the brand’s 79 Last, and in one of their most popular setups – with five eyelets and three speed hooks in antique brass, a 270 degree Goodyear flat welt, and their proprietary recessed lug outsole. The Black Shrunken Bison boot has tan stitching throughout to complement its black leather upper.
Once again Truman Boot Company has turned to the Wisconsin-based Law Tannery to source this unique leather. All of the hides come from American Bison and goes through a proprietary tanning process that helps shrink the hide, providing it with the deep texture and pull-up that Bison is known for.
Truman enthusiasts can’t get enough of this specialized tannage from the famous Charles F. Stead in Leeds, England. We’ve seen several different colorways in this leather find success among collectors.
Truman has restocked their “Salmon Rambler”, again built on their popular 79 Last and in their go-to format. The Salmon Rambler comes with a cap toe, 270 degree Goodyear flat welt, and their very own recessed lug outsole. Although one notable difference is that this boot features a full leather lining, where most Truman Boots are unlined in the shaft.
This specialized tannage from Charles F. Stead features the natural flesh-side of the hide and is finished with a blend of waxes that give it its texture. The leather is only corrected enough to smooth its surface, while leaving some of its natural characteristics intact. You’ll see details in the hide such as veins, scarring and natural inconsistencies, making each and every pair special and unique.
See You Next Week
I look forward to seeing what kind of interesting new pieces that next week will have to offer us. As always, you can count on me to bring you the latest updates in American Heritage fashion each and every week.