New releases have been dropping like crazy the past week, so let’s spare the small-talk and dive straight in.
New Releases – October 23 – October 29, 2023
Nicks Handmade Boots
Nicks Handmade Boots is doing a limited run of their 1964 leather in Mahogany. At the moment, this is just a made-to-order offer on their classic work boot line.
If you’re familiar at all with Nicks 1964 leather, it’s a 7-8oz leather from Seidel, and it’s basically a collaboration leather specifically for Nicks.
I visited the Nicks workshop about six months ago, and the story with this leather goes: there was an archival Nicks boot from the early 60s, and the Nicks team was looking at it and marveling at the leather. It was supposedly the same, or a very similar leather to what they were still getting for their work boots. But this leather was obviously softer and more supple.
I guess over the years, Seidel had continued to change their tanning process, which makes sense—you keep refining the process. But the resulting leather had become stiffer and not quite as supple or oil-packed in the 50-or-so years.
So the Nicks team went back to Seidel with their old archival boot and said: “we want leather like this again.” So the Seidel team had to dig into their history books and rediscover how they’d been tanning back in the early 60s.
And that’s how Nicks 1964 leather was born. I might be missing some details, because I’m recanting a story I heard 6 months ago, but that was the general idea. Anyway, the point is that the Nicks 1964 leather is much easier to break in, but it still has all the hard-wearing, durable qualities you’d expect from an 8oz Seidel hide.
Truman Boot Co.
Surprise! Truman has a new leather release and is teasing another upcoming leather that looks amazing.
Right now, you can get the 79 Cap Toe in Evergreen Cheaha leather from Seidel. This is another in a long list of green boots that have come out in the last 3 months.
2023 shall forever be known as the year of green boots.
Anyway, if you haven’t already gotten a green pair of boots, this may not be your chance because last I checked, these were already almost out of stock, which is crazy. Either Truman ain’t making many or they’re so popular that every new release gets snapped up on day 1. Probably the latter.
If you’ve missed the Evergreen Cheaha release, then stay tuned on Truman because they’re also dropping a Wooly Bully roughout from SB Foot Tanning Co.
This is a plain toe built on the 79 last with a Vibram Christy wedge sole.
The only experience I have with SB Tanning roughout is their Slate Muleskinner, and I love that leather. So I’m assuming this Wooly Bully leather is just as good quality. In fact, as I’m looking at it more, I think this might just be the same leather Red Wing is calling their Hawthorne Abilene, which was part of their Summer 2023 lineup. I could be wrong on that, but in any case, they’re both a lighter roughout.
You can expect this leather to age really well.
Oak Street Bootmakers
Oak Street Bootmakers has been balling out lately and diving into limited releases going after the high end.
It’s almost like they just hit a breaking point where they decided to make whatever the heck they wanted to. The latest release in this vein is their Lakeshore Boot with Minerva Liscio leather from Badalassi Carlo.
This leather has a tight grain like calfskin, but one of its unique characteristics is that it continues to darken and develop something like a burnished-effect patina. In terms of aging, it behaves a bit more like a natural undyed leather.
But that’s just the start: this has a full deerskin lining, which is bound to be so soft and supple. The upper is handlasted, the broguing details are freehand, and the welt is brush-stained for a truly unique, bespoke look to the finished boot.
Thursday Boot Co.
Thursday Boot Company continues their endless march of dominance with a completely new line of flannel shirts.
Available now in 10 different color variations and patterns, I have no idea about the fit, but they certainly look cool. And the shirts are all just shy of $100, so if you’re in a hurry to get your fall-gear game in order, you can snag a few of these without going on a rice and beans budget.
Thursday also released three new High Top sneakers, but we all know that High Top sneakers are just wannabe boots.
Foraying back into Viberg territory, the brand has released as part of their Fall/Winter 2023 Refined collection three new leathers on their Bastion Oxford. The colors are fairly standard, with Tan, Warm Brown, and Black.
But like all Viberg boots and shoes, it’s all about the details of the leather. This leather is the famous Vocalou tannage from Tannerie d’Annonay, which is a calfskin leather that I believe is tanned using escargot, croissants, and pencil mustaches.
It’s a very basic looking Oxford, but it sort of reminds of a Pilsner style beer. There’s nothing flashy to hide behind—the details must all be perfect for it to be exceptional. If anyone can do it, it’s Viberg.
Taylor Stitch is back at it with a collaboration with my credit card company. The goal of the collection is to see if I finally hit my limit and begin a swift spiral into destitution.
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First up is the Freemont Jacket, a fitted chore jacket in a 3-month washed selvedge denim fabric.
While I love the pocket placement and the overall style of this jacket, they’re not gonna get me this time because I’m not personally big on the wash. That said, it’s only a matter of time before they come out with a Fremont jacket in an unwashed indigo, at which point, I’m done.
T-Stitch has also released their new Maritime Shirt Jacket in three double-sided wool variations. This is a fantastic looking shirt, and they might actually make me cave.
Huckberry launched a collab with Peter Middleton, the founder of the New York City urban-western brand, Wythe.
Honestly, it’s a huge drop. I can’t even explain everything in it because there’s 27 different items, but it’s a mix of shirts, jackets, hats, boots, and pants.
The big standout item is the Lambskin Ranch Jacket, but there are also some incredible looking donegal corduroy jackets that are unlike anything else anyone is wearing.
This is a really cool, interesting collection, and I’m stoked on Huckberry and Wythe for putting it together.
Iron and Resin
Iron and Resin is based in Ventura, California, so they just found out that it’s autumn in the rest of the Northern Hemisphere.
A bit late to the game, they released their Fall 2023 collection, though to be fair, I believe the temperature in Ventura is still duuuude.
Lots of cool flannel, waxed canvas, and denim to find here. Plus some awesome looking ball-caps.
Division Road is the best road. They’ve released this season’s collaboration boots with White’s, and it’s all about the rolled handwelt.
I also visited White’s six months ago (they’re like 10 minutes from Nicks. Obviously had to hit JK, too). As far as I know, White’s is the only boot brand that does this kind of rolled handwelt.
I watched the guy do the rolled welt, and it looks like an incredibly labor intensive process, so it makes sense why you don’t see it often.
All I’ll say is that this type of stitchdown construction might not be long for the world.
New releases are the White’s Semi-Dress in Brown Waxed Flesh, and the lace-to-toe 350 Cutter with Horween Cinnamon Waxed Flesh and a Vibram 2060 wedge sole.
Honestly, this 350 Cutter is an insane boot. I don’t know what it is about this boot—I’m not going to get it, but I’m so glad it exists in the world.
Not only that, but Division Road has also released these fatty sweaters in a collab with Dehen 1920, that look so rich and luxurious.
There are a lot of sweaters out there I’m sure you could spend $400 on. But these actually look like they’re $400, which actually seems hard to do.
Hiroshi Kato is going full corduroy with their popular Anvil jacket. Looks good, man. Looks good.
Iron Heart is making it possible to look like an old-timey card dealer again with their Wabash Work Vests, so good on them.
Plus, they’re slinging out heavyweight flannels like it’s nobody’s business, well actually, it’s like literally their business. They’ve got a tasty looking Red Crazy Check that just came out, and I’m sure there are more on the way as well.
See You Next Week
I’m doing a new segment here at the end of these videos and in the Heritage Newsletter by BootSpy.
He’s rocking a pair of Thursday Dukes in Honey Suede and a crispy dark brown overshirt. Looks good, man.
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